A rare Boué Soeurs embroidered pink silk chemise, 1927. woven yellow on ivory satin label 'Boué Soeurs, 9 Rue de la Paix, Paris, expressly for Franklin Simon & Co', with ecru filet lace edging and floral embroidery to the bodice, a typical ribbon-worked rose to one shoulder, and ivory slotted ribbons, scalloped tulle to the hem, bust approx 92cm, 36in The Boué sisters were famous for their use of lace, fine silks, delicate embroidery and ribbon-work blossoms. They were among the first Paris couturiers to set up a fashion house in America, seeing opportunities there during difficult European trading conditions midst World War I. They set up a fashion house in New York in 1915. Their grandson Phillipe Montégut stated in an article in the 1980s that the Boué sisters were the first to introduce to America the idea of fine lingerie, 'When they came over in 1915, American women, outside of the very rich, who were the only ones to travel to Paris, were garbed in the plain and sedate underwear of the previous century. Boué Soeurs immediately popularized ornate and laced lingerie, distributing their models throughout the United States through the better department stores'.' An identical chemise was advertised in American Vogue, December 1927, p3. The Chambre Syndicale de la Couture in 1916 recommended that Parisian Couture houses should collaborate with American department stores. Franklin Simon & Co was one of the primary partners of this politically driven alliance, which was was considered an important economic support to the Paris fashion industry during wartime. We are grateful to Waleria Dorogova for this information.

Small hole to front skirt and scattered small brown spots dotted front and back. Ivory satin slotted ribbon is perishing in places. Ribbon work rose is good, colours are good.