A rare and early Jeanne Lanvin orientalist brocade evening coat, 1915, believed to have been exhibited in the French Pavillion of the Panama Pacific International Exposition, San Francisco, 1915, the label embroidered and dated 'Octobre 1915' and with indistinct blue monogram stamp - SFE?, the Ottoman inspired brocade with gold, green and blue palmettes on a black ground, the skirt formed from curved panels of gold lame forming points at the sides and trimmed with gold lace and green ribbon rosettes, broad sailor-collar, lined in Chinese-yellow satin, fastened by hooks and eyes, of loose-cut, the chest 117cm, 46in; together with an exhibition catalogue 'The French Pavillion and its Contents' (2) This extremely rare and early coat reflects Lanvin's fascination with antique, exotic fabrics. The angular sailor-shaped collar and irregular hem are typical of the teens fashions which were to some degree influenced by military and naval styles as seen in WWI. The Exhibition catalogue shows two large rooms - 18 and 19 devoted to French fashion, but unfortunately it goes into little detail of the individual exhibits. In the following lot - a special exhibition fashion guide printed by Conde Nast p7 states 'Our Elegantes have sallied forth once more, attired in those graceful Turkish mantles called 'Cafetans' made of soft velvet or dark cloth falling in long, straight, simple folds'. The coat was photographed for American Vogue, December 15th, 1915. It is described thus 'Joyous indulgence of colour marks the wrap ...with a top of rich black and gold brocade and a flounce of lustrous golden tissue woven oddly with black. Two of the most charming things about it are the bright green tasseled ribbons strewn with choux of dark fur'. A robe de style of black tulle trimmed with silver rosettes was worn underneath and also illustrated in the article.

Good condition. Fabric colours are good. Brown and yellow floss silk threads have generally eroded but especially inside collar area. Brocade appearance is generally good as is the gold lame. Very slight separating of threads front right of skirt near hem but minor. Rosettes are good, small area of ribbon needs re-stitching. Construction is good with no alterations. Lining: gorgeous colour and generally good but with numerous small rust spots and holes inside neck area. Label is soiled and split at one end. 2.5cm diam circular stain with small holes to lining centre back skirt area. Lame inside return on front left skirt is slightly frayed. Hooks at neck closure replaced.