Princess Diana | Emanuels 1981 Black Taffeta Evening Gown

A black sequin-embellished silk taffeta evening gown designed by Elizabeth Emanuel, which Princess Diana tried on for a fitting as an option to consider for the March 9, 1981, event at Goldsmiths' Hall. The event was Diana's first official appearance following her engagement to Prince Charles (now King Charles III). Diana tried on this specific sample gown for the fitting. The gown is an important part of Elizabeth Emanuel’s personal Archive Collection, which has been carefully preserved for many years at Hampton Court Palace.

The gown is made of Jakob Schlaepfer sequin-embroidered silk taffeta. It features a fitted bodice, a wide V-neckline with a ruffle accent, three-quarter-length sleeves with ruffle cuffs, and an open ballroom skirt tightly gathered at the waistline with a bow accent. This quintessential Emanuel design embodies fairytale romanticism, with design elements inspiring Diana's wedding gown.

The Emanuels presented Diana with several options for the event: a strapless black evening gown, which she wore, and a three-quarter-length sleeve design with a dainty ruffle neckline, which was more demure than the strapless version. For the occasion, Diana was looking for a sophisticated and glamorous design and specifically asked for something black. Elizabeth and David Emanuel (her ex-husband) designed a collection of black dresses. They encouraged Diana to try on the runway samples to see which she preferred. The daring strapless gown was worn, but the ruffled design inspired elements of Diana's legendary wedding gown.

The ruffled V-neck of this gown inspired the neckline of Princess Diana's wedding gown. Emanuel took note of Diana's preference for the gown's neckline and replicated a modest V-cut for the world-famous wedding gown.

The gown is dubbed the Sister Gown due to the design similarities between the strapless and sleeved versions and both being cut from the same piece of cloth, of which there was just enough to make the two gowns and an additional copy of the Goldsmiths Hall gown after Princess Diana lost weight. British Vogue fashion editor Anna Harvey wasn't on hand during the fitting and could not advise Diana on a modest neckline versus a more revealing decolletage. Harvey was appointed as a guiding figure for Diana in her early years as the Princess of Wales to assist her with royal dress codes and establish her unique style.

Alice Newbold for British Vogue interviewed the designer on September 13, 2020, who reflected on Diana's time at the Brook Street studio, saying "'It was a big adventure for us all,' Elizabeth explains of the closeness she and David felt to Diana, who understood better than anyone the feeling of being thrust suddenly into the spotlight. The Emanuel studio became a safe space for a young woman who loved trying on fantastical dresses that transported her to a place away from the paparazzi lined up outside. 'It was a sanctuary without anyone spying on her,' says Elizabeth."

The gown comes with an Emanuel Special black tulle multi-layered petticoat and a cotton canvas striped (white and grey) garment bag from the early 80s.

Please note: The designer, Elizabeth Emanuel, retains all intellectual property rights to Elizabeth Emanuel/Emanuel designs.

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