BELLOWS FALLS, Vt. – The sale titled Vintage For Valentines at Augusta Auctions on February 14 was led by an extraordinary printed chiffon outfit by the legendary Parisian fashion house Worth. The Worth half-mourning gown, circa 1904, came for sale from the Museum of History & Industry in Seattle, Washington. Estimated at $5,000-$8,000, it hammered for $16,500 ($20,625 with buyer’s premium), with 54 bidders watching via LiveAuctioneers.

Like its contemporaries, the House of Worth would produce mourning attire upon request for its regular customers – the best of whom paid handsomely to have their entire wardrobe fitted out by the couturier. Mourning dress reached its peak during the reign of Queen Victoria, and in 1904, it remained de rigueur to wear black for at least three months while grieving for a loved one. During full mourning, clothes were solid black, while half-mourning attire, such as this gown, allowed the wearer to add a small amount of white or purple to the ensemble.

This two-piece gown was probably designed by Jean-Philippe Worth, who assumed the role of lead designer after his father, founder Charles Frederick Worth, died in 1895. By this time, the House of Worth was no longer operating at the very cutting edge of French fashion, but it remained a favorite of both royalty and celebrities. It was not until 1924, during the tenure of Jacques Worth, that Worth ventured into the perfume market with its fragrance Dans la Nuit, presented in a bottle made by René Lalique.

Made roughly 12 years later was a very different example of female attire – a two-piece cotton blouse and bloomers work uniform by Sweet-Orr & Co. of Newburgh, New York. The patent for the ‘Womanall’ was granted on December 12, 1916, just months before the U.S. entered the First World War. Made in the same durable khaki cloth used for military uniforms worn by American soldiers on the frontlines in Europe, it was described at the time as practical yet ‘attractive’ and ‘womanly.’ Similar garments can be seen worn by woman workers in propaganda posters from the circa 1917-18 period.

The well-preserved example offered in Vermont had been deaccessioned by the Valentine Museum to benefit its core collection and future acquisitions. Estimated at $800-$1,200, it hammered for $3,100 ($3,875 with buyer’s premium).