CHICAGO – An Art Deco pendant by Cartier led Hindman’s May 16 Important Jewelry auction, realizing $100,800 against an estimate of $10,000-$20,000. The pendant was among a collection of Cartier jewelry, curated from estates across the country, which achieved strong results. Overall, the sale realized $3,689,973, with 67% of lots selling within the estimate or above the high estimate.
Director & Senior Specialist of Jewelry & Watches Sally Klarr said, “This pendant was an exciting lot for our department to offer. It comes from the time period when members of the Cartier family were traveling to Asia gathering stones and creating rare objects like this with carved gems, just like the famed Tutti Frutti Cartier jewels. This colorful example is likely a one-of-a-kind Art Deco treasure made in the famed Cartier Paris workshop.”
Another top lot was an unheated Burmese ruby ring that brought $138,600 against an estimate of $40,000-$60,000. Senior Specialist of Jewelry & Watches Karina Hammer said of it, “We are thrilled with the result for this unheated Burmese ruby ring. With its rich, even natural color and lack of inclusions, it proved to be a very rare gem indeed.”
Other standouts included an unheated Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring that earned $94,500 against an estimate of $25,000-$35,000, and a diamond ring that realized $163,800 against an estimate of $150,000-$200,000. Senior Specialist of Jewelry & Watches Ruth Thuston said of the diamond ring, “An exquisite D color 5.02-carat cushion-cut diamond ring was a favorite at our previews and turned out to be the top lot of the auction.”
In addition to the Art Deco pendant, a Cartier Art Deco platinum and diamond bracelet attained $59,850 against an estimate of $30,000-$50,000. Senior Specialist of Jewelry & Watches April Matteini remarked about the piece, “This bracelet by Cartier, Paris was a quintessential example from the early Art Deco period. For me, this bracelet ticked all of the boxes for design, craftsmanship and diamond quality; the strong pre-auction interest and spirited bidding proves it did for others as well.”
Yet another Cartier piece that did well was a Cartier London Retro aquamarine bangle bracelet that sold for $22,680 against an estimate of $8,000-$12,000, of which Klarr said: “Nearly a 60-carat aquamarine is eye-catching on its own, but when it is from Cartier London, it attracts high-level collectors. Cartier London set itself aside during the Deco period for magnificent aquamarine jewelry made under the watchful eye of Jacques Cartier – who used the larger gemstones to create streamlined designs until the start of the first World War. This is a chic example of that post-Art Deco design to a more machine-streamlined look of the Retro time period.”
Highlights also included pieces from the personal collection of jewelry designer Evelyn Clothier. “We are honored to sell these pieces on behalf of Evelyn Clothier – her pieces are exquisite and made with the highest quality enameling. We have an excellent track record with selling her unique designs and the Iris brooch from her is a true masterpiece,” said Klarr.
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