CHICAGO – Hindman’s inaugural Jewelry Through the Ages auction explores jewelry trends and their evolution. Across more than 600 lots that date from the 1st millennium B.C. to the 21st century, bidders will have the opportunity to acquire wearable pieces from a range of cultures. Absentee and Internet live bidding will be available through LiveAuctioneers.

“As our first auction to showcase jewelry from ancient to modern times, we are excited to offer bidders a chance to journey through the ages to discover the development of jewelry and the timeless trends we still see in fashion today,” said Hindman Director and Senior Specialist of Antiquities Jacob Coley.

Ancient to Neoclassical | March 21

As the world’s oldest art form, ancient wearable jewelry and engraved gems reveal past cultures and civilizations and shed light on our collective history. The first day of the sale will feature Byzantine, Roman, Greek and Neoclassical-style jewelry.

The auction will kick off with wearable beaded necklaces from the ancient Near East and scarab swivel rings from Egypt. Often used for spiritual or religious rituals, the sale will offer amulets worn for protection against evil spirits, charms worn for fertility, and magic gems worn for good luck.

Engraved gems — also known as cameos and intaglios — were highly sought-after during this period. Typically made from minerals such as agate or quartz, these pieces were often carved with intricate designs featuring figures from mythology or scenes from literature. These gems often adorn rings or brooches while others were simply kept as collector’s items.

Neoclassical pieces to be offered spotlight the influence of Greco-Roman culture. This time saw a renewed interest in Roman culture due to the Italian campaigns by Napolean Bonaparte against Italy in 1796, and the 1798 war between France and Egypt, prompting an increased usage of Egyptian motifs such as sphinxes, pyramids, palmets, papyrus leaves and scarabs.

Georgian to Modern | March 22

Day two of the auction will span Georgian to Modern, displaying the development of jewelry across Georgian, Victorian, Art Nouveau, Edwardian, Art Deco, Retro, and mid-century to modern jewelry.

Georgian jewelry, referring to jewelry made in United Kingdom during the reign of the four King Georges, featured silver-topped gold pieces. This was a popular style because the silver tarnish would not rub off on clothing due to the gold. An example is lot 45, a pair of convertible diamond earrings estimated at $800-$1,200.

Moving into the Victorian era, gem-cutting techniques advanced, as reflected in the colorful floral pieces the young Queen Victoria favored. Throughout her period of mourning, which the queen chose to remain in for the rest of her life, the jewelry of the late Victorian era is darker and more somber to display the monarch’s grieving.

Unique jewelry featuring floral inspiration and whimsical lines characteristic of the Art Nouveau period is also highlighted. Evoking images of Parisian subway entrances and spring, this era broke away from the more formal angles of past time periods.

La Belle Epoque, or “the beautiful age,” as it was known in France is part of the Edwardian era, is when some of the greatest pieces in European royal collections were made.

Entering into the Art Deco era, taking place after World War II, we see the re-emergence of larger diamond and colored stone pieces, such as a Bailey, Banks and Biddle jade, diamond and enamel brooch estimated at $1,000-$2,000. This era is a very distinct time in jewelry design and has influenced much of today’s styles.

This era was also inspired by the discovery of King Tut’s tomb – influencing art, architecture and jewelry. Use of carved gemstones also saw new life as discoveries in the East were brought to Europe and America.

A return to war meant that platinum was rationed, thus ushering in the Retro era during and post-World War II, known for its use of gold and rose gold. As more and more people looked to Hollywood as the new royalty of the world, the Retro style was seen on covers of Hollywood and fashion magazines.

From mid-century to modern jewelry, the style of the previous time periods come back into style and roll out with each new generation. Through the rise of new jewelers in the 50s, such as Harry Winston and Oscar Heyman, creating glamorous diamond pieces, and then the increase of bold gold pieces of the 60s and 70s, it is clear that jewelry styles are ever-changing.

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