Watches, jewelry add sparkle to Dreweatts & Bloomsbury July 9 sale

Gem set clip brooch by Afro Basadella for Masenza, circa 1950. Estimate: £1,200-1,500. Dreweatts & Bloomsbury Auctions image.

Gem set clip brooch by Afro Basadella for Masenza, circa 1950. Estimate: £1,200-1,500. Dreweatts & Bloomsbury Auctions image.

LONDON – Innovative jewelry produced in the mid-20th century by artists in collaboration with Italian jeweler Mario Masenza will bring Roman charm to a sale of fine jewelry at Dreweatts & Bloomsbury Auctions’ Donnington Priory saleroom on Wednesday, July 9. The auction of jewelry will be preceded by a comprehensive collection of privately sourced wristwatches from the finest watchmakers, alongside silver, pens and luxury accessories.

LiveAuctioneers.com will provide Internet live bidding.

From UK and European collections the sale spans the late 18th century through Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco periods to jewelry from the major ateliers of the 20th and 21st century.

Mario Masenza (1913-1985) came from an illustrious family of Italian jewelers. When he inherited their shop on the fashionable Via del Corso in Rome after the war, Masenza sought a new path for the family business that would prove to bring inspiration to and revolutionize the Italian jewelry market and its approach to design.

Throughout the mid-20th century Masenza collaborated with emerging young Italian artists to offer his elite client list, who included the Italian Royal Family, stunningly original jewelry.

Sicilian sculptor Franco Cannilla was approached by Masenza and together they produced revolutionary work until the late 1960s. An example of his impressive work is a clip brooch set with a cascade of emeralds, cabochon rubies and sapphires and brilliant cut diamond that will be offered in Dreweatts & Bloomsbury Auctions’ sale of fine jewelry estimated at £1,500-2,000 ($2,550-3,400) [Lot 599].

Also joining productions in Masenza’s workshop was Italian painter Afro Basadella and his brother Mirko, his work included a clip brooch set with brilliant cut diamonds, square cut rubies and circular cut emeralds and sapphire, estimated in the sale at £1,200-1,500 [Lot 600].

Masenza’s gallery and workshops became the meeting place for artists and collectors, where painters and sculptors such as Franco Cannilla and the Basadella brothers could experiment with materials to create highly individualistic artists jewels, leading to many of their pieces being exhibited at international design exhibitions worldwide as works of art.

Elsewhere in the sale from Anglo-Italian doyen of modern British jewelry design, Andrew Grima (1921-2007), is a 1960s amethyst ring. Capturing the trends of the current jewelry market this ring is estimated at £700-1,000 [Lot 589].

Further highlights:

– A Victorian diamond brooch and cluster ear pendents, circa 1860, the floral foliate brooch with a central flower head set with cushion cut diamonds, the central diamond estimated to weigh 0.82 carats, approximately 1.76 carats total; together with a pair of diamond cluster ear pendents, the principal diamonds estimated to weigh 0.65 and 0.63 carats, within a surround of old cut diamonds, with an old cut diamond surmount, approximately 2.92 carats total, shepherds hook fittings, 2.5cm long. The brooch and ear pendents were given to Lady Rose Leveson-Gower (nee Bowes-Lyon) the Countess of Granville, sister of Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother, by her husband the 4th Earl Granville, William Leveson Gower, thence by decent to the current consignor [Lot 417]. Estimate: £3,000-5,000.

– A Victorian pink spinel and diamond brooch, circa 1880, the five-cushion cut spinels in claw settings with foliate diamond set spacers between, 6.6cm long. This brooch was given to Lady Rose Leveson-Gower (nee Bowes-Lyon) the Countess of Granville, sister of Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother, by her husband the 4th Earl Granville, William Leveson Gower [Lot 419]. Estimate: £1,500-2,000.

– A late 19th century Indian subcontinent gem set long chain, circa 1900, the chain with faceted gold links with rope twist detail with tumbled rubellite and emerald beads with pearl spacers between, 186cm long, with a pearl and emerald drop (formerly part of the chain). The pearls are untested and unwarranted as natural pearl. This chain was given to Lady Rose Leveson-Gower (nee Bowes-Lyon) the Countess of Granville, sister of Queen Elizabeth, The Queen Mother, by her husband the 4th Earl Granville, William Leveson Gower [Lot 430]. Estimate: £1,500-2,000.

– A sapphire and diamond swirl clip brooch by Tiffany & Co., circa 1960, no 31028, the swirling brooch set throughout with graduated oval cabochon sapphires, with brilliant cut diamonds accents, signed Tiffany & Co. and stamped New York, 3.1cm diameter [Lot 511]. Estimate: £3,000-4,000.

Leading the sale of watches will be an Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak man’s 18K gold wristwatch. Inspired by brass divers helmets the collectible and iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was a revolutionary timepiece that shook the watch industry when it was first introduced at Basel World in 1972.

Steeped in nautical and British history the state-of-the-art waterproof wristwatch was named after the eight battleships of the British Royal Navy, themselves budded from the tree within which King Charles II hid from the Roundheads following the Battle of Worcester in 1651. Widely regarded as one of Audemars Piguet most iconic watches this timepiece remains popular with collectors and is estimated at £6,000-8,000 [Lot 221].

Representing Breguet is a man’s 18K white gold Breguet Classique, circa 2007, ref. 5930, no. 1411AA. The elegant timepiece is offered within a Breguet traveling case with a spare strap, it is estimated at £3,000-5,000 [Lot 222].

Highlights for the Jager LeCoultre enthusiasts include a man’s stainless steel triple date wristwatch, circa 1945, ref. 348048, estimated at £2,000-3,000 [Lot 243] and the classic, Art Deco styled, gentleman’s 18K gold Reverso Grande GMT wristwatch, estimated at £5,000-8,000 [Lot 244].

Of note for the collectors is a J.W. Benson Blitz limited edition 18K gold rectangular wristwatch, circa 1990, ref. 81750, no. 024/100. The rare series used dials and movements that were found in a vault of a Benson factory that survived the German air raids during World War II. In a J.W. Benson box with a replacement movement, no. 25882, this collectible watch is estimated at £1,500-2,500 [Lot 242].

Further highlights:

– Cartier, a lady’s 18K white gold wristwatch, circa 1930, ref. 24318 05000, no. 3255, the two-piece screw-down case with back wind and set, the silvered dial with black Arabic numerals and blued steel hands, 17 European Watch & Clock Co. duo plan movement with eight adjustments, bimetallic balance and flat balance spring, the case 34mm including lugs, 10mm wide, on an integral bracelet with fold over clasp [Lot 210]. Estimate: £3,000-5,000.

– Patek Philippe, Ellipse, a man’s 18K gold wristwatch, circa 1970, ref. 3546, no. 2661727, the three-piece case with blue dial, baton numerals and hands, 18-jewel Patek Philippe movement adjusted to heat-cold isochronisms and five positions, cal. 23-300, no. 1146856, the case 34mm including lugs, 27mm wide, on a black strap with a fold over clasp, with a spare silvered dial [Lot 249]. Estimate: £2,500-3,500.

– Patek Philippe, Gondolo, a man’s platinum wristwatch, circa 1995, ref. 5014, no. 4026186, the two-piece screw-down case with black dial, raised Arabic numerals, baton hands and subsidiary seconds dial, 18-jewel Patek Philippe movement adjusted to heat-cold isochronisms and five positions, cal. 215, no. 1860436, the case 36mm including lugs, on a black strap, in a Patek Philippe leather box, with outer card packaging [Lot 250]. Estimate: £5,000-8,000

– Rolex, Daytona, a man’s stainless steel chronograph wristwatch, circa 1991, ref. 16520, no. X808458, the two-piece screw-down case with black dial, raised luminous baton numerals and hands, subsidiary dials running seconds, hours and minutes, 31-jewel Rolex automatic chronograph movement adjusted to five positions and temperature, cal. 4030, no. 71155 [Lot 259]. Estimate: £4,000-6,000.

– Rolex, Milgauss, a man’s stainless steel wristwatch, circa 2013, ref. 116400, unnumbered, the two-piece screw-down case with green glass, the black dial with raised luminous baton numerals and hands and lightning bolt center seconds hand, 31-jewel Rolex automatic movement with dust cover, adjusted to five positions and temperature, cal. 3131, no. 33082264, the case 49mm including lugs, the case 41mm, on a block link bracelet with fold-over clasp, in a Rolex box with outer card packaging, guarantee, card and two spare links [Lot 263]. Estimate: £2,000-3,000.

View the fully illustrated catalog and register to bid absentee or live via the Internet as the sale is taking place by logging on to www.LiveAuctioneers.com.


ADDITIONAL LOTS OF NOTE


Gem set clip brooch by Afro Basadella for Masenza, circa 1950. Estimate: £1,200-1,500. Dreweatts & Bloomsbury Auctions image.

Gem set clip brooch by Afro Basadella for Masenza, circa 1950. Estimate: £1,200-1,500. Dreweatts & Bloomsbury Auctions image.

A 1960s amethyst ring by Andrew Grima (1921-2007). Estimate: £700-1,000. Dreweatts & Bloomsbury Auctions image.

A 1960s amethyst ring by Andrew Grima (1921-2007). Estimate: £700-1,000. Dreweatts & Bloomsbury Auctions image.

A 1950s gem set clip brooch by Franco Cannilla for Masenza. Estimate: £2,500-3,500. Dreweatts & Bloomsbury Auctions image.

A 1950s gem set clip brooch by Franco Cannilla for Masenza. Estimate: £2,500-3,500. Dreweatts & Bloomsbury Auctions image.

Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak, man's 18K gold wristwatch. Estimate: £6,000-8,000.  Dreweatts & Bloomsbury Auctions image.

Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak, man’s 18K gold wristwatch. Estimate: £6,000-8,000. Dreweatts & Bloomsbury Auctions image.

Jaeger LeCoultre, Reverso Grande GMT, man's 18K gold wristwatch, circa 2000. Estimate: £5,000-8,000. Dreweatts & Bloomsbury Auctions image.

Jaeger LeCoultre, Reverso Grande GMT, man’s 18K gold wristwatch, circa 2000. Estimate: £5,000-8,000. Dreweatts & Bloomsbury Auctions image.

J. W. Benson, Blitz, man's limited edition 18K gold rectangular wristwatch, circa 1990. Estimate: £1,500-2,500. Dreweatts & Bloomsbury Auctions image.

J. W. Benson, Blitz, man’s limited edition 18K gold rectangular wristwatch, circa 1990. Estimate: £1,500-2,500. Dreweatts & Bloomsbury Auctions image.