A TIGER’S EYE AND GOLD NECKLACE, BY GEORGES LENFANT, CIRCA 1970 The long chain formed as a series of alternating ropetwist and polished links, interspersed with woven knot-shaped motifs and polished tiger’s eye beads, in 18K gold, maker’s mark 'GL' for Georges Lenfant, French assay marks, length 91cm Georges Lenfant was born into the world of French jewellery design, and he quickly became a master of his trade. Growing up, he undertook several apprenticeships before studying jewellery in Paris and abroad. In 1900, Georges set up his own workshop at 47 rue des Petits-Champs, minutes away from his patrons at the Place Vendome and Rue de la Paix. He was well established by 1903 and was listed in a publication of the Revue de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfevrerie of that year. His creative designs and flawless execution put him in demand with the larger jewellery houses and, in a bid not to be forgotten behind famous names such as Cartier, Mellerio dits Meller and Van Cleef & Arpels, Georges established a maker’s mark in 1909 and proceeded to stamp each piece before it left his workshop. In 1915, Georges was joined in the firm by his son Jacques who, at the age of just eleven, was eager to learn the art of jewellery. His keen interest would stand by him as, in time, Jacques would take over the business and create some of Georges Lenfant’s most memorable designs. Neither Georges nor Jacques shied away from collaboration and the Georges Lenfant company had been working with Sandoz for many years when, in 1927, Gustave-Roger Sandoz sold his business to Georges under the condition that his son, Gerard Sandoz, remained as artistic director. Between them, they created striking examples of Art Moderne jewellery, their work infused with bold lines, bright colours and contrasting shapes. Following the end of WWII, Lenfant took over Verger Freres. This heralded a new collaboration with Vacheron Constantin, who had been working with Verger Freres for some time. Constantin and Lenfant busied themselves with watch design and, together, they created pieces for Hermes. The 1960s and 70s saw Jacques at the helm of Georges Lenfant and his passion for goldsmithing led to beautiful textured pieces that celebrated the versatility of the metal. Jacques’ captivation by the different shapes and textures that could be wrought with gold led to his signature chain pieces as he was fascinated by how the interlocking links could be arranged into a myriad of patterns. Over three thousand pieces were inspired by the chain motif and are now some of Georges Lenfant’s most notable creations. In 2003, Georges Lenfant was bought by Bouder and ceased to operate. However, pieces bearing the Lenfant mark continue to prove popular, their numerous collaborations meaning that there is a design to suit everyone.

Tiger’s eye: Well matched and with typical internal features Maker’s park ‘GL’ partially rubbed/ identifiable. Additionally stamped 750 for 18K gold. Light surface wear, overall good condition Total gross weight approx. 114.7g