JEAN COCTEAU: TAUREAU PENDANT, CIRCA 1975
The hammered bull's head incised with detail from the reverse, signed Jean Cocteau, edition number 15/50, numbered 2631 and 1491, maker's mark PH for Pierre Hugo, length 10.8cm, fitted maker's case
Footnotes:
Illustrated:
Raulet, S., Jewelry of the 1940s and 1950s, New York, 1988, p.281.

Many of Jean Cocteau's designs feature mythical creatures, inspired by ancient civilisations and astrology. In 1961, these jewels were exhibited at the International Exhibition of Modern Jewellery in London. This particular edition was produced by Pierre Hugo, who took over Ateliers Hugo in 1975.

Pierre's father, François, was born in 1899 in Rovezzano, Italy, the great-grandson of Victor Hugo. François initially trained as an engineer. During and after the Second World War, he designed and produced buttons from non-precious metals and enamel for Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli and Christian Dior but he is best known for the 'Bijoux d'Artistes' that he produced with his friends Pablo Picasso, Max Ernst, Jean Arp and Jean Cocteau amongst others. He began collaborating with Picasso in 1956 and later with Jean Cocteau from 1960, producing jewels based on the artists' prolific output of drawings. Hugo produced a total of thirteen jewels with Cocteau, all in 23 or 18 carat gold, sometimes set with precious stones. The methods used by Ateliers Hugo derive from ancient techniques. Their 'Bijoux d'Artistes' are cast in 23 carat gold from bronze moulds and embellished with the 'repoussé-ciselé' technique invented by François Hugo. Ateliers Hugo still collaborates with artists today and is run from the same studio in the South France by Pierre's son, Nicholas.