Central Asia, Turkmenistan and Afghanistan, Turkoman (Turkman) Tekke peoples, ca. 19th century CE. An elegant gilt silver bracelet consisting of 3 horizontal registers adorned with 12 carnelian oval inlays - 4 in each row - of fiery red hues surrounded by incised scroll motifs. Lustrous passages of gilding further embellish the exterior, making for a golden glow that contrasts with the exposed silver of the raised borders, which are also incised with diagonal, cord-patterns, while the peripheries of the band boast gilt, vegetal designs. The opening is then adorned with 22 rhomboid spikes, 11 on either side. Size (of bracelet): 3.4" L x 3" W (8.6 cm x 7.6 cm); Size (of wrist opening): 2.6" W (6.6 cm); silver quality: 89%; total weight: 193.9 grams

Fabulous jewelry like this was a hallmark of elite men and women in the Turkoman society. Powerful people wore the items they commissioned or gave them as diplomatic gifts to rulers and elites in other countries as a way of showcasing the wealth of their own region. Jewelers worked on commissions from the richest members of society, obtaining precious metal from various mountains in the area, including Ferghana and the Zartalash east of Tashkent. Jewelers worked with a variety of different precious and semi-precious stones, also sourced from far afield. Artisans in cities like Bukhara, Samarkand, and Tashkent kept alive metalworking traditions once common in the medieval period long after Europeans lost them.

Provenance: private Hawaii, USA collection, acquired from 1995 to 2010; ex-Beverly Hills collection, Los Angeles, California, USA

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#168293

Wearable as shown. Minor abrasions to bracelet and carnelian stones, with light fading to gilding in some areas, otherwise intact and very good. Wonderful patina throughout. Collection label on interior of band.