Indian Kutch Embroidered Dress (Abba), Mid 19th C. Silk with Silk Embroidery, Size: 42'' x 39'' (107 x 99 cm). Together with a Maharajah Coat, late 19th C. Size: 44'' x 57'' (112 x 145 cm). Some of the best, most intricate stitchwork was produced in the Kutch province of Gujarat in northwest India. Case in point is this dress — red silk satin with silk thread embroidery and mirrors, chain-stitch, buttonhole stitch, and interlacing stitch. There are about 16 different types of embroideries done in the Kutch region, but the most well-known one is the Rabari embroidery called Abhala, which is characterized by chain stitches and generous use of mirrors. The women depict the world around them, without the help of sketches or patterns. The only material used is a simple needle and thread, which they purchase from Bhuj, the largest urban center of the province.

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