Indonesian Painted Fiber Blouse from Central Sulawesi, Early 20th C. Size: 29'' x 35.5'' (74 x 90 cm). The people of Central Sulawesi, Indonesia, primarily dressed in barkcloth until the introduction of woven textiles in the 20th century. In their daily attire, men commonly wore loincloths, while women adorned themselves with pleated, layered skirts along with blouses like the one featured here. Barkcloth in the region was typically made from mulberry and ficus trees. This particular blouse is crafted from mulberry barkcloth, as indicated by its delicate texture and lighter color, especially on the inside. Ficus barkcloth tended to be darker in color and was often worn for everyday use, while mulberry barkcloth was reserved for ceremonial and special occasions. The process of creating barkcloth involves harvesting the softer inner bark of trees, particularly from below the rough outer bark. Men often assisted in obtaining the bark and making tools, but it was primarily the women who conducted the beating and decoration. The inner bark was separated, boiled, cooled, and then wrapped in leaves for fermentation, which took place over three, five, or seven days. It was strictly taboo to disturb the cloth during the fermentation process. Additional taboos included making the fabric inside homes, doing so after sunset, during the harvest season, after an epidemic, or during mourning periods following the death of a relative or noble. After the fermentation process, the cloth was meticulously beaten using a specific set of wooden and stone tools, each with a distinct purpose in the beating process. The unique sounds produced by these tools during each stage of beating allowed neighboring residents to gauge the progress of the crafting. From this material, various garments were fashioned, including skirts, head wraps, blouses, and loincloths. These pieces were then adorned with paint and appliqué, as seen in this blouse, which features intricate geometric designs reminiscent of growing plants or the sun, using colors like orange, black, and purple.

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