South Asia, Northern India, Rajasthan, Mughal, ca. 19th century CE. A spectacular and ready to wear antique necklace with multiple strands of seed pearls punctuated by a pair of matching oval jadau pendants and a larger central pendant. Between the 3 pendants there are 21 diamonds, and 43 rubies total these gemstones are inlaid in high karat gold 96.42% (23K+) using several traditional techniques to achieve a truly luxurious necklace. The verso faces are further decorated with intricate meenakari enamel flowers. The end of the pearl strand has a modern 14K gold clasp, the claw inlaid with a ruby, diamond, and sapphire - making this easy to wear (originally the wearer tied this on with cords). Jadau jewelry is often associated with special occasions and is considered a symbol of tradition and luxury in Indian culture. The pieces are often passed down through generations and are worn during weddings and other significant celebrations. Size: 19" L (48.3 cm); large pendant: 1.6" L x 1" W (4.1 cm x 2.5 cm); gold quality: 96.42% (equivalent to 23K+); weight: 50.6 grams

When it comes to Mughal style, nothing is spared in terms of expense - the craftsmanship and materials are of the highst quality. Jadau jewelry commonly features uncut or flat diamonds known as Polki. These diamonds are often set into the gold using a technique called "Kundan setting," where the stones are encrusted into the gold without any visible support. Kundan is the use gold foil under the gemstones to intensify their colors. Jadau pendants often incorporate Meenakari enamel; coloring the gold surface in brilliant patterns. This technique is widely practiced in regions such as India, Iran, and the Middle East. The process involves creating partitions or cells with gold, which are then filled with enamel. Although hidden under the enamel, a high karat gold is most commonly used, The use of vibrant colors and the detailed craftsmanship make Meenakari jewelry highly prized and sought after. When the Mughals conquered India from Central Asia, they brought the technical skills of setting gems and incorporated the traditional Indian styles of goldwork - including Kundan - into their jewelry that contained Middle Eastern elements - such as intricate floral patterns and heavy stonework, as seen here. Kundan stones (Kundan meaning "highly refined gold") is the traditional North Indian Rajasthan way of setting gemstones in a gold foil between the other stones, and the pure molten gold helped achieve the tight setting. Jewelry was a crucial part of visual authority for Mughal rulers, and strategic marriages between Mughal royalty and members of Rajput aristocracy were often arranged - for both political reasons and Rajasthan's renowned jewelry production. In order to enforce their high social status, the Mughals passed Sumptuary Laws that decreed only members of the upper class could wear opulent jewelry.

Provenance: private Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA collection; ex-Artemis Gallery; ex-private Czechoslovakia collection acquired before 1980

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#184153

There are an uneven number of strands of seed pearls on each side of the upper section (7 on one side, 3 on the other), but the visual effect is still pleasing. There are nine strands of seed pearls on each of the lower ends. Minor losses to enamel work as shown. Lobster clasp is not original, but tasteful and made from 14K gold with inlaid gemstones. Necklace is wearable!