H.R.H. Queen Mary's court or formal gown, early 1930s, labelled `J Blancquaert & Co, Court Dressmakers & Ladies Tailors, 38, 39, 40 South Molton St W.' of cloth of silver, graduating to gold at the hem, overlaid with ivory chiffon and covered in a shimmer of crystal bugle beads, seed `pearls' and diamanté, with overall repeat of large iris blooms with two, three and four tassel motifs falling from the waist to the hem, the bodice with square neckline, short sleeves trimmed with crystal fringes, the front discreetly inset with pocket to front seam on right side, the rear skirt with central godet of striped shimmering bugles and pastes to the trained, curved hem, pleated bands of chiffon inset to the side hems, bust 96cm, 38in The dress was acquired by the vendor from the Theatrical Ladies' Guild (now the Theatrical Guild) in April 1981. It had formerly been in the possession of Princess Alice of Athlone, a patron of the Guild, who died in January 1981, and was presented to it by her daughter Lady May Abel Smith. The vendor was told by Evelyn Laye, the actress, that Queen Mary requested that her grand, formal dresses should be made with a pocket in the lining (as this example has) to hold biscuits to assuage her hunger on state occasions. Queen Mary was not a follower of fashion, preferring instead to adapt the currently fashionable fabrics to her own more Edwardian influenced stately form of dress.

yellow damp stain on the beaded panels all around the perimeter of the skirt and train - though these are not immediately visible, a few ink speckles to the rear left side of the skirt; one sleeve panel in need of re-stitching and a few small areas of arm-hole sleeve in need of re-stitching. silk ribbon edging to prestud closure on left side is disintegrating - but this is not visible and easily repairable.Some pulling to the lame undergown where the hooks and eyes meet at the closure on the left side.