A rare and early Madeleine Vionnet couture beaded gown, Spring-Summer 1918, the narrow ivory satin label embroidered in green chain stitch, the front with three beaded strand straps, the back with multiple beaded strands, the neckband studded with large facetted jet-like beads, the crêpe embroidered with large stylised roses in bugle and seed beads, the waistband cut low at the back, curving upwards across the front, side fastening, bust approx 92cm, 36in, inner waistband 71cm, 28in See 'Madeleine Vionnet' edited by Pamela Golbin, p60 for an archive photograph of this dress being worn below a velvet cape with rose collar. See also 'Vionnet' by Jacqueline Demornex p33 for another Vionnet archive registration photograph which is mis-dated 1921 and shows a different angle of the same session. This is the earliest Madeleine Vionnet dress ever to come onto the open market.

Beading is generally good, the large rose motifs are intact – some of the single strand fronds are missing. Jet beaded collar and seed beaded multiple straps are good. Small soil mark centre front bodice and skirt above hem. The hem has been shortened - there is an 8cm return of fabric on the reverse. The early embroidered label does not bead the thumb print – it is places onto a black satin ribbon inner waistband which has wide splits and would benefit from re-backing. The dress has 2 inner waistbands at high and low level (either side of the broad shaped waistline) and both satin bands have perished. Skirt side seams have both been taken in. Slight perspiration stains at underarm at left armhole. Seam below left side closure needs re-stitching 7cm.