Vat at 15% is payable on the hammer price of this lot. A rare and early Alix - (Madame Grès) couture gold and ivory silk damask evening gown, Winter, 1935, the label with dark brown lettering on ivory satin ground `Alix Paris', no 6516, the bodice with high, pointed waist, the back formed from narrow arrow-shaped panels fastened by hooks and eye with triangular openings to the lower back, the skirt formed from just two main panels joined at the centre front and back with narrow hem shapings at the sides, the fabric with overall repeat of flowerheads against a ground of golden leaves, bust approx 86cm, 34in, (2) Literature: Femina October 1935, p.40 for a drawing of by the illustrator Harambure. A xerox of this page is included with the lot. This is an extremely early example of Alix, Madame Grès work as a couturier. The exact history of her early years is confused but she is believed to have trained at the couture house of Premet in 1930 for three months. It is thought that she then moved to the minor couture house of Julie Barton at 8 rue de Miromesnil. She now went under the name of Alix Barton". Alix models were featured in Vogue in 1933. It is then believed that she established "Alix Couture" at 83 rue du Faubourg Saint Honore in 1934. The label changed from `Alix' to `Grès' at 1 Rue de la Paix in 1942. She adopted the name of `Grès' from her artist husband (Serge Anatlievitch Czerefkow) who often signed his paintings thus. Madame Grès was a master technician and although most well known for her complex draped jersey gowns when using other fabrics her understanding of construction is clearly demonstrated. She first sourced the fabric and let it `speak' to her - the fabric being pinned and draped onto wooden mannequins; she did not use sketches in the premlinary stages of the design. ln this beautiful example she uses her understanding of fabric and constuction to create a gown with the minimum seams and fuss to produce what at first hand appears to be a simple but at the same time very sensuous gown. Gowns with the Alix label rarely come onto the market.

Some faint yellow discoloration to the rear hem of the skirt, occasional spotted stains – three on rear skirt panel which are visible inside but barely visible outside, four near front hem and patch of yellow discolouration, the stains are visible when the fabric is held up against the light but not visible from the front side of gown in normal conditions, label needs re-stitching on one side, good condition