A DEEP PURPLE AMETHYST AND DIAMOND 14 CARAT PINK GOLD RING

Austria, Attributed to Erwin Paltscho, after 1930
Two hallmarks, one '585', the other illegible

The center stone of almost flawless deep purple color, nicely flanked by four small diamonds, set in a 14 carat gold mounting with vertical high-relief lines, which are a design trademark of the House of Paltscho.
The House of Paltscho was founded in Vienna, Austria, in 1899 by Ernst Paltscho who had trained under his father Karl. He soon established himself and began attracting the attention of a diverse group of clients including Austro-Hungarian aristocracy and the Greek Royal household. Ernst's son Erwin joined his father in the business in 1918 and after Ernst's death in 1929, Erwin carried on the business alone. The company produced finely crafted pieces of jewelry that were influenced by the aesthetics of the Art Deco period and were frequently inspired by the natural world. Motifs including flowers, leaves and fruit were beautifully carved in a veritable rainbow of colorful hardstones as well as being painted into reverse carved rock crystal before being set in gold. Deep purple amethyst, pale pink rose quartz and bright red corals all lent their hues to a stylish array of bracelets, brooches, earrings and rings. Erwin Paltscho was regarded as a designer at the very vanguard of Austrian artistic style and development of
the period.

Shape: Ring size 54 (EU)
Weight: 10.9 grams
Condition: Very good with some wear
Insurance value: This ring was recently appraised with an insurance replacement value of 2.800,- Euro; the original certificate will be handed to the winning bidder
Provenance: Austrian private collection

Auction result comparison: FINE JEWELLERY. Bonham's, 6 December 2012, London, lot 121. (compare the amethyst in this ring with an array of deep purple amethysts in a 1950s brooch by Erwin Paltscho)