Ooh la la! Christie’s Paris has haute couture for fashion week, Jan. 25

Yves Saint Laurent haute couture Spring-Summer 1985 tricolor Moroccan crepe wrap dress, estimated at $850-$1,300. Image courtesy of Christie’s Images Ltd. 2023

Yves Saint Laurent haute couture Spring-Summer 1985 tricolor Moroccan crepe wrap dress, estimated at $850-$1,300. Image courtesy of Christie’s Images Ltd. 2023

PARIS – From January 11 to 25, for Paris Fashion Week, Christie’s will present an online selection of the 115 most beautiful haute couture pieces from the V.W.S. collection – from Beijing to Versailles. Alongside designers Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld, other great 20th-century masters will be showcased: Christian Lacroix, Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, Jean-Louis Scherrer and Valentino. View the fully illustrated catalog on LiveAuctioneers.

The collection, made up of pieces dating back mainly to the 1970s, 80s and 90s, highlights the exceptional know-how, creativity and glory of haute couture as some of these creations may be considered true artworks. Collectors and haute couture lovers will be enthused by the diversity of the pieces featured in this selection, including cocktail dresses, day dresses, evening outfits, embroidered garments, and skirt and trouser suits, as well as by the exceptional variety of materials, styles and designers. The enticing estimates, which range between €400 and €4,000, will allow everyone to give themselves a treat. Better still, 5% of the sale’s total proceeds will be donated to the Arts Decoratifs Museum in Paris, as requested by the family. This selection, brimming with discoveries, colors, elegance and drama, will be presented in a dedicated setting, created in partnership with the architect and founder of the Culture in Architecture studio, Aline Asmar d’Amman.

Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld haute couture Spring-Summer 1988 black and fuchsia organza and plumetis evening gown, estimated at $2,200-$3,200. Image courtesy of Christie’s Images Ltd. 2023

Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld haute couture Spring-Summer 1988 black and fuchsia organza and plumetis evening gown, estimated at $2,200-$3,200. Image courtesy of Christie’s Images Ltd. 2023

The haute couture section, with several pieces embroidered in particular by Maison Lesage, is reminiscent of the interconnection of cultures and civilizations highlighted in the V.W.S collection. Starting from the Chanel Maison, which, under Karl Lagerfeld’s direction, distinguishes itself with a remarkable Hurel violet velvet dress entirely embroidered with Tudor motif pearls, from the Autumn-Winter 1988-1989 collection, estimated at €4,000-€6,000. The Yves Saint Laurent Autumn-Winter 1984-1985 and Jean-Louis Scherrer Autumn-Winter 1985-1986 collections respectively present a short jacket in suede and fur embroidered with braids and crystals by Lesage, estimated at €4,000-€6,000, and a long evening dress in brocade with cashmere motifs enhanced with embroideries by Vermont, estimated at €800-€1,200.

Yves Saint Laurent haute couture Autumn-Winter 1984-1985 short jacket of suede and mink, fully embroidered with crystals, rhinestones, gems and gold braids by Lesage, estimated at $4,300-$6,300. Image courtesy of Christie’s Images Ltd. 2023

Yves Saint Laurent haute couture Autumn-Winter 1984-1985 short jacket of suede and mink, fully embroidered with crystals, rhinestones, gems and gold braids by Lesage, estimated at $4,300-$6,300. Image courtesy of Christie’s Images Ltd. 2023

The creativity of this haute couture garment selection is embodied by evening pieces and cocktail outfits such as a jacket in velvet crepe embroidered with sequins, gemstones and creased golden leather from 1987-1988 by Yves Saint Laurent, estimated at €3,000-€5,000, and an evening dress in satin and muslin with entirely embroidered sleeves from the Autumn-Winter 1989-1990 collection by Valentino, estimated at €800-€1,200. Adorned with red satin, the black velvet ensemble dating back to 1979 by Hubert de Givenchy pays tribute to Elsa Schiaparelli and has an estimate of €800-€1,200.

Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld haute couture Autumn-Winter 1988-1989 velvet dress entirely embroidered by Lesage with Tudor patterns and removable collar with a brown satin underskirt, estimated at $4,300-$6,300. Image courtesy of Christie’s Images Ltd. 2023

Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld haute couture Autumn-Winter 1988-1989 velvet dress embroidered by Lesage with Tudor patterns, with removable collar and brown satin underskirt, estimated at $4,300-$6,300. Image courtesy of Christie’s Images Ltd. 2023

The sale has a wealth of pieces that deftly combine elegance and modernity, particularly the many creations blending black and white. An Yves Saint Laurent short evening dress in shot silk and black and white velvet from the Autumn-Winter 1984-1985 collection, estimated at €1,000-€1,500, converses with a Chanel white grosgrain and black skirt ensemble from the Spring-Summer 1991 collection, estimated at €2,000-€3,000. Givenchy Maison’s know-how is showcased by two pieces embroidered in the Lesage workshops: a long evening dress in ivory crepe and black sequin embroidery from the Spring-Summer 1983 collection, estimated at €800-€1,200, and a white silk gabardine jacket by Abraham adorned with a sumptuous embroidery on the back, from the Autumn-Winter 1984-1985 Hommage a Berard collection. Its estimate is €1,000-€1,500.

Yves Saint Laurent haute couture Autumn-Winter 1987-1988 black velvet jacket embroidered with sequins by Lesage, estimated at $3,200-$5,300. Image courtesy of Christie’s Images Ltd. 2023

Yves Saint Laurent haute couture Autumn-Winter 1987-1988 black velvet jacket embroidered with sequins by Lesage, estimated at $3,200-$5,300. Image courtesy of Christie’s Images Ltd. 2023

Color and exuberance are also intrinsic to this superlative selection of haute couture, as demonstrated by many Christian Lacroix embroidered evening ensembles, in particular a skirt suit in cream brocade with large lapels and organdie ribbons from the Spring-Summer 1994 collection, estimated at €800-€1,200, and a long evening ensemble in orangey tweed and wild silk from the Spring-Summer 1996 collection, with an estimate of €1,000-€1,500. Alexander McQueen is represented by a coat in almond green satin and black lace from 1997-1998, estimated at €1,000-€1,500, and Yves Saint Laurent appears again with a wrap dress in tricolor Moroccan crepe, a piece from the Spring-Summer 1985 collection, estimated at €800-€1,200. Another triumphantly colorful piece comes from Chanel: a long evening dress in organza and black and fuchsia dotted Swiss fabric from the Spring-Summer 1988 collection that has an estimate of €2,000-€3,000.

 

The current rate of exchange is €1 = $1.08.

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