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Japanese 18th-century Noh Choken kimono, estimated at $2,000-$3,000 at Material Culture.

Textile expert’s spectacular collection unfurled at Material Culture Oct. 23

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PHILADELPHIA – On Monday, October 23, Material Culture will present a sale titled Sarajo | The Yosi Barzilai Collection. Its 552 lots are drawn from the holdings of Yosi Barzilai, the Israeli American cofounder of Sarajo, an antique textiles and collectibles gallery in the New York City borough of Brooklyn. The Sarajo website states that Barzilai is transferring the business to a mentee and former employee, which might be the occasion that led him to consign. Absentee and Internet live bidding will be available through LiveAuctioneers.

Carrying the highest estimate, at $5,000-$7,000, is a 19th-century Bukhara Suzani from Uzbekistan; ‘Bukhara’ is the name of an Uzbek city, and ‘Suzani’ describes the type of textile. The piece features a cotton ground comprised of seven panels enhanced by silk embroidery.

A standout originating in China is a late 19th-century silk-on-silk embroidered calf-length surcoat, which a Han Chinese woman would have worn to informal occasions. Fashioned from light lavender silk satin and graced with blue floral embroidery, it has an estimate of $4,000-$6,000.

From Japan comes an 18th-century Noh Choken kimono that would have been worn by a Noh theater actor. Meant to be sumptuous and elaborate, it sports green gauze with gold paper work laid over purple silk and is estimated at $2,000-$3,000.

Yet another exquisite ethnographic textile, estimated at $2,000-$3,000, hails from Turkmenistan: a 19th-century silk-embroidered chyrpi, a type of cape that would have been worn by a married woman who belonged to a nomadic tribe known as the Tekke. The abundance of yellow marks it as a married woman’s chyrpi. Widows wore white chyrpis, and young women favored dark blue or black.

But perhaps the most spectacular lot isn’t made from cloth. Also on offer is an early to mid-20th-century Syrian tall chest inlaid with images of deer, lions and flowering vines in mother-of-pearl, bone, wood and silver. Completed with porcelain pull handles, the chest is estimated at $4,000-$6,000.

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19th-century Bukhara Suzani from Uzbekistan, estimated at $5,000-$7,000 at Material Culture.
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Late 19th-century Chinese surcoat, estimated at $4,000-$6,000 at Material Culture.
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Japanese 18th-century Noh Choken kimono, estimated at $2,000-$3,000 at Material Culture.
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19th-century Central Asian chyrpi, estimated at $2,000-$3,000 at Material Culture.

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20th-century Syrian five-drawer chest, estimated at $4,000-$6,000 at Material Culture.
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