A RARE YELLOW-GROUND SILK KESI ROBE 'DRAGON' PANEL
Wanli
The panel finely woven with a lively side-facing five-clawed horned dragon chasing a flaming pearl beneath an oval canopied lantern decorated with a rabbit and striding amidst wispy ruyi clouds interspersed with the Auspicious Emblems, all on a rich yellow-ground above the terrestrial diagram rising above rolling waves and ruyi clouds, mounted.
122cm (48in) long x 61cm (24in) wide.
Footnotes:
明萬曆 黃地緙絲龍紋袍料

Provenance: Jacqueline Simcox Ltd., London, 2007
An English private collection

來源：倫敦古董商Jacqueline Simcox Ltd.，2007年
英國私人收藏

Finely woven in gold and multi-coloured threads with elegant designs of a side-facing five-clawed dragon, writhing amidst clouds and a lantern decorated with a rabbit, the present panel would have formed the front right half of an Imperial robe which would have been worn by the Emperor on the occasion of the Lantern Festival celebrations.

The Lantern Festival was held over a period of ten days centering on the 15th day after the New Year Festival, which was the time of the first full moon of the new year. It appears to have been introduced during the Han dynasty, probably in relation with the spread of Buddhism in China. Emperor Ming of the Eastern Han dynasty (25-220 AD) had heard that Buddhist monks prayed to Buddhist relics on the 15th day of first lunar month, lighting lanterns to pay respect to the Buddha. Taking a liking to the custom, he ordered that lanterns be lit throughout the Imperial palace and all the temples on the same day. The custom of hanging lanterns quickly became widespread among the population; see G.J.Melton, Religious Celebrations: An Encyclopedia of Holidays, Festivals, Solemn Observances, and Spiritual Commemorations, Goleta, CA, 2011, pp.514–515.

A colourful scroll painting titled 'Xianzong Enjoying Pleasures', in the History Museum, Beijing, depicts the ruler at several moments in time including his tour of the palace surveying the elaborate festivities he ordered for the Lantern Festival, which included several rows of brilliantly-blazing lanterns lining the archway leading up to the Imperial palace; see J.Stuart, 'Timely Images: Chinese Art and Festival Display', in Proceedings of the British Academy, vol.167, 2009, pp. 295–348.

The Emperor, Imperial family and high-ranking wealthy courtiers wore costumes woven or embroidered with themed decoration for the festive event. While the Ming dynasty official colour was red, the Emperor wore yellow for his official Court dress. Robes made to be worn for the occasion were probably restricted for use by the upper ranks at the Court of the Wanli Emperor, known for its demand for luxurious silks. Compare with a silk gauze embroidered panel from a dragon robe made for the Lantern Festival, Wanli, depicting a side-facing dragon riding amidst clouds and lanterns, illustrated by J.Vollmer and J.Simcox, Emblems of Empire, Edmonton, AB, 2009, pp.50-51.

General surface wear including light fading; scattered splits and losses, the largest approx. 5cm; some small re-stitched/reinforced areas. The large fragment has been stitched into the pale ground background, leaving a slightly irregular edge on the vertical side. There is a long slightly discoloured narrow band up the left hand vertical side visible in the photo.