Near East, Holy Land, Byzantine empire, ca. 6th to 8th century CE. A dazzling and wearable gold necklace consisting of a figure-8 loop-in-loop chain with an orb-shaped pendant at the center and a pair of openwork rondels flanking a twisted hook clasp. The stunning pendant is comprised of 2 rows of braided gold loops connected by 5 circular, cabochon bezels - 4 of garnet and 1 paste glass - at the midsection. Circular gold sheets with undulating peripheries lie at the interior of the top and bottom of the orb, while an additional garnet bezel adorns the exterior of the bottom, and an ample suspension loop extends from the top. Each rondel is embellished by an openwork quatrefoil motif formed via 4 spiraling, slender gold ribbons. An exemplary ornament - replete with ancient artistic talent and modern stylistic taste! Size (of chain): 22.5" L (57.2 cm); Size (of orb pendant): 0.7" W x 1" H (1.8 cm x 2.5 cm); Gold quality: 90% (equivalent to over 21 karats); Weight: 23.5 grams

The Byzantine period was a time of intense religiosity and immense wealth devoted to religion. On the backdrop of the Crusades and the split between the Eastern and Western branches of the Church, religious jewelry like this played a significant role. Not only did it symbolize one's status, but it also served as a diplomatic tool. Interestingly, Emperor Justinian established laws (later called the Justinian Code) that among other things regulated the wearing of jewelry. He stated that sapphires, pearls, and emeralds were reserved for the emperor; however, every free man was actually entitled to wear a gold ring. This suggests widespread popularity of jewelry, and indeed, wealth abounded in the Byzantine Empire, there were gold mines within its borders, making gold more easily accessible. What's more, its geographical location was ideal for trade between the East and the West. Hence, individuals of various pursuits including military officers, traders, as well as high officials reporting to the emperor would all have been able to afford luxurious jewelry.

This piece has been searched against the Art Loss Register database and has been cleared. The Art Loss Register maintains the world's largest database of stolen art, collectibles, and antiques.

Provenance: East Coast collection, New York Gallery, New York City, New York, USA, acquired before 2010

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#159440

Wearable as shown. One garnet bezel on side of orb replaced with glass, as mentioned. Otherwise, remarkably well preserved and in excellent condition.