CARTIER: ART DECO DIAMOND CLIP, CIRCA 1930
The stylised fountain motif of Persian inspiration, with pierced detail, pavé-set with brilliant and single-cut diamonds, accented by baguette and step-cut diamonds to the centre, mounted in platinum, diamonds approximately 7.00 carats total, signed Cartier Paris, rubbed number L 2942, maker's mark, partially struck French assay marks, length 3.0cm
Footnotes:
Provenance
Mrs Robert Emmet (1875-1947)
Descent to the current owner

Mrs Robert Emmet (1875-1947), born Louise Garland, was the daughter of James Garland, co-founder and Vice President of the First National Bank of the City of New York and organiser and builder of the Northern Pacific Railway. In 1896, she married Robert Emmet and the New York Times described their wedding as 'one of the prettiest house weddings of the season'. The service was performed by Archbishop Corrigan under a canopy of red roses in the home of the bride's parents on Madison Avenue, New York, and the entire choir of St. Patrick's Cathedral provided the vocal music accompanied by the organ and Lander's Orchestra. The couple moved to England and settled in Warwickshire buying 500 acres of land and building a manor house in Elizabethan style called Moreton Paddox. During World War One, Moreton Paddox was converted into a 50-bed convalescent hospital for which Louise received a citation from the War Office expressing the highest commendation and most appreciative thanks. A noted collector like her father, Louise was a valued client of Cartier and purchased superlative jewels when visiting their stores in Paris, London and New York. The two lots offered here are from her exquisite personal collection and have been enjoyed by four generations of her family.

Significant archaeological discoveries during the second half of the 19th century led to a rediscovery of civilisations beyond Europe's borders. By the turn of the 20th century, Islamic art had become a field of study and inspiration for museums, artists, musicians, dancers, such as the Ballet Russes, and jewellers, such as Cartier. Louis Cartier was influenced by the Exposition des Arts Musulmans at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in 1903 and the museum's 'Oriental Rooms', which opened in 1905, while Jacques Cartier travelled extensively around India and the Persian Gulf. The resulting relationship between Cartier and the East was long and fruitful, with Persian and Indian-inspired motifs appearing in their jewels from the dawn of the 1900s to the 1930s. Comparable diamond-set 'cloud' and 'fountain' motifs can be found on a variety of jewels by Cartier (see Eds. Ecker, H. et al, 'Cartier and Islamic Art: In Search of Modernity', London, 2021, pp.178-179 for a sautoir pendant and cigarette case of Persian inspiration from 1928-29 and p.275 for an emerald and diamond necklace from 1932, also see lot 148, 'Fine Jewellery', sold Bonhams, 25th April 2018, for a circa 1930 emerald and diamond bracelet). It is also interesting to note the study of Islamic architectural motifs in the design drawings of Charles Jacqueau (Eds. Ecker, H. et al, ill.p.272).

The Persian inspired form of this clip also incorporates baguette-cut diamonds - one of notably large size - and this was one of Cartier's innovations. The baguette-cut is believed to have developed from the 16th century 'hogback' used for the setting of monograms and jewelled initials. Cartier reintroduced this cutting style in 1912 and its popularity increased throughout the Art Deco period due to its bold clean lines and geometric form. Here, the baguette-cut has been combined with the brilliant and the square-cut – the deceptively simple geometric lines of the jewel are in fact a foil for its technical artistry.

Top of pin fitting signed Cartier Paris with a rubbed number 'L 2942', One pin with a maker's mark. Pins and gallery with partially struck French assay marks (dog's heads). Principal baguette and step-cut diamonds estimated F-I colour, VVS-VS clarity. Remaining diamonds estimated G-I colour, VS-SI clarity. Principal baguette-cut diamond approximately 1.00 carat. Untested white metal with some light surface wear. Overall in good condition. Gross weight approx. 16.5grams.