VAN CLEEF & ARPELS: DIAMOND AND GEM-SET FLOWERSPRAY BROOCH, 1930S
The engraved and highly textured floral and foliate spray tied with a fluttering ribbon, decorated throughout with brilliant, old brilliant and single-cut diamonds, circular-cut rubies and sapphires, cabochon and sugarloaf emeralds, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered 47796, engraved 'country of origin: France' length 8.4cm
Footnotes:
Provenance
Believed to have been purchased from 'Jewels and Watches, formerly from the Dwight D. and Mamie Eisenhower Collection: Property of the John S.D. Eisenhower Trust', Magnificent Jewels, Christie's New York, 6 December 2017, lot 49

This jewel closely resembles the brooch worn by Margaret, Duchess of Argyll (1912-1933), in her portrait, exhibited at the Royal Academy in 1934, by Gerald Leslie Brockhurst. Brockhurst specialised in painting rich and famous society women of the 1930s and 40s – other sitters included Merle Oberon, Marlene Dietrich, Mrs Paul Mellon, Lady Doverdale and the Duchess of Windsor - and his polished style perfectly captured the glamour and sophistication of the era. Margaret, wearing a black gown with gold floral embroidery, possibly by Schiaparelli or Mainbocher, wears the brooch pinned upside down at the centre of her dress.

During the 1930s, Margaret 'set a beauty standard that stood unchallenged' (The Tatler) with her green eyes and magnolia complexion. She would go on to become one of the most photographed women of the 20th century, an indomitable social figure of star status, who knew nearly everyone in the worlds of politics, society, theatre and film. She was frequently named in the world's best dressed lists and was a favourite subject of gossip columnists and known for hosting lavish parties. Her event for Paul Getty's 80th birthday was attended by King Umberto of Italy and Tricia Nixon, daughter of the American President.

Born Ethel Margaret Whigham in 1912, of Scottish heritage, Margaret was the only child of self-made millionaire and one of the richest men of his day, George Whigham. Her childhood was spent in New York where she became friends with Woolworth heiress and 'poor little rich girl' Barbara Hutton (see lot 78) who later nearly became her sister-in-law. After her extravagant society debut and presentation at court, that she described as 'a whirl through wonderland', she wore a different couture gown, glittering with jewels, for every event she attended.

Her rich and eligible suitors included Prince Aly Khan, millionaire aviator Glen Kidston, publishing heir Max Aitken and the Earl of Warwick. In 1933 she married tall and dashing American stockbroker and amateur golfer, Charles Sweeny, whose skill on the dancefloor was likened to Fred Astaire. Her spectacular dress and train were by Norman Hartnell and the wedding, attended by 2000 guests and many more gate crashers and onlookers, blocked traffic in London's Knightsbridge for over three hours.

In 1951, Margaret married Ian Campbell, 11th Duke of Argyll. Their sensational and much-publicised divorce case from 1959 to 1963 was recently retold in the TV series 'A Very British Scandal' in which Margaret was played by Claire Foy. A newspaper article at her death in 1993 observed she 'bequeathed a legacy of intrigue and scandal worthy of Britain's naughtiest aristocrat.'

Although the rendering of the brooch in the portrait differs slightly from the real piece in the arrangement of gems, this could be artistic licence; the jewel is an atypical Van Cleef & Arpels' design and therefore highly unusual.

How it would have entered the collection of Dwight and Mamie Eisenhower is uncertain. It is conceivable it was either gifted or sold to the Eisenhowers during the early 1970s when the former President was Ambassador to Belgium. During this time Margaret sold several possessions privately and she certainly knew Eisenhower. The critic for the New York Times wrote when reviewing, 'Forget Not', her 1975 autobiography, 'everybody who was anybody from Barbara Hutton to 'Dickie', Earl Mountbatten to Somerset Maugham to Stavros Niarchos to President Eisenhower gets a cool appraising eye as the Duchess sweeps through the story of her life.'

As Margaret wrote in later life, 'I had wealth, I had good looks. As a young woman I had been constantly photographed, written about, flattered, admired, included in the Ten Best-Dressed Women in the World list, and mentioned by Cole Porter in the words of his hit song 'You're the Top'. The top was what I was supposed to be. I had become a duchess and mistress of a historic castle. My daughter had married a duke. Life was apparently roses all the way.'

Portrait of Margaret, Duchess of Argyll by Gerald Leslie Brockhurst (1890-1978) © Richard Woodward

Yellow metal highly textured and engraved front and back. Diamonds in white metal settings. French assay marks - dog's head and eagle's head - on stem just below clasp. Signature and number on white metal plaque at base of stem on reverse. Engraved 'country of origin France' along central stem on reverse. A few areas of blackening of metal seen of reverse - on the back of the ribbon and on the back of a couple of the flowers. One of the smaller diamond flowers is slightly loose. Diamonds are Si-I clarity. Rubies, sapphires and emeralds are well matched, vibrant red, blue and green hues. Light wear. Overall condition good.