**First Time At Auction**

South Asia, Northwestern India, Mughal Empire, ca. 19th century CE. This is a stunning gold and polki diamond Mughal bazuband pendant, worn around the outside of the upper arm. The verso is filled with lac resin and the verso is decorated with champleve enamel. The obverse has high 79.83% (equivalent to 19K+) gold Kundan settings around 55 polki (raw) diamonds -Kundun includes using gold foil under the stones that that face been foiled underneath to intensify their color. The sides have small gold loops enameled red, for threading this centerpiece bazuband for the on an armband around the bicep - although this could be worn today as a necklace pendant. These armlets were worn by men and women as decorative adornments and status symbols. Size: 1.65" L x 1.25" W (4.2 cm x 3.2 cm); gold quality: 79.83% (equivalent to 19K+); weight: 37.7 grams

When the Mughals conquered India from Central Asia, they brought the technical skills of setting gems and incorporated the traditional Indian styles of goldwork - including Kundan - into their jewelry that contained Middle Eastern elements - such as intricate floral patterns and heavy stonework, as seen here. Kundan stones (Kundan meaning "highly refined gold") is the traditional North Indian Rajasthan way of setting gemstones in a gold foil between the other stones, and the pure molten gold helped achieve the tight setting. Jewelry was a crucial part of visual authority for Mughal rulers, and strategic marriages between Mughal royalty and members of Rajput aristocracy were often arranged - for both political reasons and Rajasthan's renowned jewelry production. In order to enforce their high social status, the Mughals passed Sumptuary Laws that decreed only members of the upper class could wear opulent jewelry

Provenance: private Boynton Beach, Florida, USA collection; ex-Rajiv Mehra collection, Delhi, India

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#177542

Minor areas of restoration to enamel verso along the white enamel edges near loops and green rim. Hair line fissure in the large central diamond. Rest are intact and excellent.