Central Asia, India, Mughal Empire, ca. 17th to 18th century CE. A gorgeous 18 karat gold pendant studded with diamonds (six), rubies (seventeen), and an emerald (one). It is in two parts, joined by a golden hinge. The upper part is a seven-petaled flower, inlaid with rubies around a single diamond. The lower part is a more elaborate series of inlays and swirls resembling the inside of a rose, around a center that once contained four diamonds (now just three). An inlaid, perfectly round emerald projects from the hinge. Hanging below this are seven hollow, round, gold baubles (there were once nine, the one from either edge is now missing). Size: 1.05" W x 1.9" H (2.7 cm x 4.8 cm).

Mughal elites adored precious stones, not just for their beauty, but also for protective and magical properties that they believed each stone had. Their incredible jewelry is part of a long tradition in India that came to its height with the Mughals. When they conquered India from Central Asia, they brought the technical skills to set gems with them. In order to enforce their high social status, the Mughals passed Sumptuary Laws that decreed only members of the upper class could wear jewelry like this. Diamonds, in particular, were believed to have special powers - the Mughals thought that they were created when lightning struck rocks (their name is Sanskrit is "vajra," meaning thunderbolt). They believed that diamonds could heal illness, ward off death, and protect the wearer from snakes, poison, evil spirits, and various other ills.

Provenance: private San Diego, California, USA collection

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#125787

One diamond is missing. Slight bending and tiny losses on a few of the gold baubles. Two baubles are missing.