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Weekly Auctions of Exceptional Items
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London, United Kingdom
DoneTue, Dec 9, 2014 2:00 PM GMT

Passion for Fashion

Our fine December 'Passion for Fashion' sale contains one of the finest selections of Japanese fashion ever to come onto the market. It includes the iconic Issey Miyake red resin breastplate, 1980, which features on our back cover (lot 202); rare Comme des Garçons pieces from the 1980s; a selection of ?Bump? collection pieces right across the Comme range (main label, robe de Chambre and Tricot labels) by Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe, as well as a superb Yohji Yamamoto artisanal kimono Yamamoto with intricately tie-dyed panels and buttock revealing under-dress (lot 245). Jean Paul Gaultier haute couture rarely comes to the market but we have three magnificent pieces which were commissioned but never worn. Lot 266 is a very Cleopatra-esque evening gown with a finely pleated chiffon over-dress which floats over a cloth of gold column. The bodice is held in place by massive gilt metal bulls-horn like bars. Amazing! As usual we have a splendid offering of McQueen including pieces from his early and controversial ?Highland Rape? collection (A/W 1995/6) as well as the proto-type for his ?Bumster? trousers made as birthday gift by Lee himself for his friend - the celebrated drag artist Trixie Bellair in December 1992 (lot 277). McQueen haute couture includes the fabulous tartan dress cut like an 18th century riding jacket from his ?Eclect-Dissect? Givenchy collection, A/W 1997-8 (lot 279) as well as a shimmering silver beaded and brocaded silk gown with chain-mail effect bodice from S/S 1998 (lot 282). Undoubtedly the most important piece in the sale is the Elsa Schiaparelli ?Zodiac? collection evening coat (lot 81, front cover). The dark black wool tweed contrasts with the soft, pink velvet pockets covered in hand-made and gilded Sèvres porcelain flowers. Only Schiap would come up with something so whimsical, different and beautiful ? combining fine porcelain with heavy wool.