Zandra Rhodes: a 'Reverse Lily' and 'Field of Lilies' Kaftan-Style Chiffon Gown The Lily Collection, Autumn-Winter 1972-73 Style number 73/44 Pink and purple screen-printed 'Reverse Lily' silk chiffon bodice with kimono-style sleeves, gathered waist band tied with silk satin sash, navy silk chiffon full length skirt in 'Field of Lilies' print, Zandra Rhodes London label and Sample label, together with a wide navy silk satin sash belt (2) Labelled size 10 Footnotes: Provenance From the Zandra Rhodes Archive All proceeds will go to the Zandra Rhodes Foundation. The 73/44 style has been widely worn and was highlighted as an iconic representation of Zandra Rhodes' work in the 2005 exhibition and accompanying publication, Zandra Rhodes: A Lifelong Love Affair with Textiles. 'Field of Lilies' began on a trip that Zandra Rhodes took to Japan in 1971. There, she began to sketch lilies given to her by her friend Mr Kurisaki, who acted as muse and friend. This print uses calligraphy and writing, with Rhode's repeated writing of 'a lily' and 'a field of lilies'. The lily prints debuted at Rhode's Roundhouse Show in 1972 and soon became a trademark print of her brand. As Zandra Rhode's discusses in The Art of Zandra Rhodes, published 1984: 'The Lily Prints are vital in two respects. First, I love them and feel they represent the best of my work. It is the original paper design 'Field of Lilies' that the Victoria and Albert Museum chose for their textile archives. Second, with the 'Reverse Lily Print', I developed a way of printing by turning the screen to reverse the print. It was a new technique which I have since used time and again, with great effect [..] The screen itself forms only half the pattern, but when reversed and printed again, it completes the whole motif. It would be impractical to use a single screen for a print of this size. The complication (or art) of this type of design is to create a mirrored image but not necessarily end up with an obvious join line through the centre. A further interesting detail in the case of the Reverse Lily design is that the curve in this motif controls the shaping of the garment bodice and is the line to which the chiffon linings are attached. Different parts of the print remaining are used as collars, sleeves and hems. I work out all my own paper designs and repeats and check every detail myself. I think this is why my work retains its individuality and is so instantly recognisable.' This lot is subject to the following lot symbols: • • Zero rated for VAT, no VAT will be added to the Hammer Price or the Buyer's Premium. For further information on this lot please visit Bonhams.com For further information about this lot please visit the lot listing