Details

DAVID WEBB RUBY AND DIAMOND 'STRAWBERRY' BROOCH

Designed as a strawberry, oval cabochon rubies, round and baguette-cut diamonds, platinum and 18k yellow gold, signed Webb David Webb, 2005: Invoice

Size/Dimensions: 7.3 x 7.3 cm (2 7⁄8 x 2 7⁄8 in)
Gross Weight: 73.4 grams

Provenance

Irene Roosevelt Aitken (1931 - 2025)

Literature

Cf. R. Peltason, David Webb: The Quintessential American Jeweler, New York, Assouline, 2013, p. 28

Lot Essay

Just as Mrs. Aitken had a clear and defined style for her incredible home, she also had impeccable taste when it came to acquiring jewelry. Several well know heritage houses stand out when viewing her collection as a whole, but there is one classic American designer that leads the collection, none other than the highly celebrated David Webb.

Founded in New York in 1948, David Webb quickly became an influential American jeweler best known for his bold, sculptural designs that helped define luxury jewelry in the mid‑20th century. Gaining acclaim for his imaginative use of color and scale, his pieces often combined richly textured gold with vibrant enamels, gemstones and diamonds, creating jewels that feel both modern and timeless. Favored by prominent collectors such as Mrs. Aitken and other style icons, David Webb jewelry remains coveted for its craftsmanship, absolute confidence, and unmistakable design language.

Mrs. Aitken’s meticulously curated collection of David Webb features saturated colored stones like sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and aquamarines to charming baroque pearls. Bright diamonds of all shapes and sizes, unique materials such as coral, turquoise, water like rock crystal and of course signature enamel work hand painted in tonal, opaque shades.

Classic Webb designs kick off the collection prominently featured in the Magnificent Jewels live auction. Lot 1, the Ruby and Diamond ‘Strawberry’ Brooch illustrates a perfectly ripe strawberry through the use of cabochon rubies. The undulating stem communicated through dazzling round and baguette-cut diamonds with accents of yellow gold and platinum.

Seen throughout the Aitken’s collection of important art, interiors and objects, wildlife and animal imagery were a constant throughline. The same is true for David Webb. Fascinated by wildlife, the house introduced striking jewels that took the form of tigers, lions, leopards, zebras, frogs and fish. Each crafted with vivid enamel, accented by brilliant gemstones and diamonds, these creations capture the majestic presence of the animals in a fantastic wearable object.

Lots 2 through 5 showcase this shared interest with some of the finest examples of Webb animal jewels. Unlike traditional bracelets that are continuous, the bracelets featured in the collection are constructed in articulated sections, allowing them to wrap around the wrist with a sense of fluidity. From sketch to final form, each jewel is meticulously constructed – seeming to breathe life into the animal, as if it is ready to inspire movement on one’s wrist or lapel.

Mrs. Aitken’s collection of David Webb is one of the largest and most important to ever come to auction. Across both the Magnificent Jewels live auction and the Jewels Online sale, classic Webb designs are front and center and a chance to acquire a jewel from one of the most important collectors, connoisseurs and patrons of art of our time.