
Description
This antique Rene Boivin platinum and diamond lily-of-the-valley brooch, dating to the 1880s, captures the natural inspiration that defined early French jewelry design. Shaped as a stylized flowering branch, it’s set with a mix of old mine, rose, and cushion cut diamonds. Each stone is carefully positioned to form a cascading floral silhouette. Two pavé-set leaves complete the design, adding delicate curves, that enhances the organic flow of the brooch. This Rene Boivin diamond lily-of-the-valley brooch is designed "en tremblant", with the four lower rows of bezel-set diamonds mounted on fine wire supports so they are freely articulated and gently tremble with every movement, enhancing their brilliance when the brooch is touched or worn. A rare early example from the House of Boivin, this jewel is a collectible work of wearable art. A Jewelry Identification Report is included, listing the specifications of all the diamonds (see photo 4 for details). The brooch was created by Rene Boivin in France in the 1880s. It is made of platinum, old mine cut, Old European cut and rose cut diamonds (F-I color, VS clarity, total weight approximately 12.60 carats). This remarkable Rene Boivin brooch measures 2 1/2" x 1 3/4" (6.5 x 4.5 cm) and weighs 24.9 grams. This antique French brooch is stamped with French hallmarks for platinum and Rene Boivin maker's mark. About Rene Boivin Brand: The ability to keep its own style through the centuries is the staple of Rene Boivin jewelry. The company was founded in the late 19th century. Over the time Rene Boivin pieces have been adapting all the new trends and processed it via the original and special way of making jewelry. The most well-known Rene Boivin jewels were produced in 1930-1940, when the company was led by Jeane Boivin, Rene’s widow. Her partners at that time were two extraordinary talented jewelry designers: Suzanne Belperron and Jeane’s daughter, Germain Boivin. That perfect team made Rene Boivin designs that are still highly admired in the modern world. Being surrounded by Parisian artistic crowd, Jeane Boivin projected the influence of that circle to her jewelry. The exotic visuals of Picasso and Gauguin could be seen in her Torque, Barbare or Tranche collections. Instead of following a common geometrical trend of the Art Deco movement in 1930s, the House of Boivin created naturalistic themed pieces — such as orchids, umbel clusters and fox gloves. In 1940s the designs offered more eloquent and larger size pieces featured important colored stones or diamond as a center stone. In 1970s the brand was inherited by Jacques Bernard. Twenty years later it was bought by Asprey Co., and then later by the French jewelry firm. While the epochs and owners were passing, Boivin creativity and flawless craft remained the same until the house was closed in the end of 20th century.
More Details
Creator:
René Boivin
Metal:
Platinum
Stone:
Diamond
Stone Cut:
Mixed Cut
Weight:
24.9 g
Dimensions:
Height: 2.5 in (63.5 mm)Width: 1.75 in (44.45 mm)
Place of Origin:
France
Period:
1880-1889
Date of Manufacture:
1880s
Condition:
ExcellentWear consistent with age and use.
Seller Location:
Beverly Hills, CA
Reference Number:
Seller: NEOOO 2-261stDibs: LU6928607782
Reserve: $88,000.00
Shipping:
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In the rare event that the item did not conform to the lot description in the sale, Chairish Auctions specialists are here to help. Buyers may return the item for a full refund provided you notify Chairish Auctions within 5 days of receiving the item.
Buyer's Premium
20%
Antique Rene Boivin Platinum Diamond Brooch Circa 1880s Estate Jewelry
Estimate $106,000-$127,000
Starting Price
$44,000
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Mar 12, 2026 10:00 AM EDTNew York, NY, United States
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